Atc guide mode. 5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6.

Atc guide mode This allows you to bend the rope through the toothed groove at a sharper angle, creating more friction and ultimately saving hand strength for climbing instead of belaying. It operates as an auto-locking system‚ designed to provide secure rope control during belaying and rappelling. It belongs to a group of belay devices which are in the Czech Republic called the “buckets”. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Mar 29, 2025 · Belaying in guide mode is a valuable skill for multi-pitch climbing, allowing the leader to safely bring up the second climber. Thanks! Here is the story: Been in the Marine Reserves over 6 years (My drill stop date was may 2012), I still drill at my current reserve unit have not dropped to the IRR. IFR small A/C on final - turning a VFR A-10 inside you need 4 miles NOW if its 2/A-10 standard you're turning inside of the small do you add the 1 mile increaed separation for a formation flight In the . : belayer’s brake hand side of the rope when used in high friction mode or guide mode : climber’s side of the rope when used in high friction mode or guide mode : Pictogram advising users to read the instructions and warnings. Jan 4, 2024 · You can tell this is a Guide Mode Tube because of the two extra holes on the outside of the slots. May 17, 2025 · To set up guide mode, the ATC-Guide is typically attached to the anchor system using a locking carabiner through the designated guide mode attachment point. Apr 19, 2009 · A lot of the big TRACON's are the LAST to get nice, new equipment. Does anybody put their ATC on guide mode on their harness when delaying from the bottom in order to act as more of an assisted braking device? I tried it out belaying someone and it worked really well just not sure if theres a reason people don't do this. Jan 28, 2019 · There is a huge MP thread somewhere about various ways to do this with an ATC in guide mode. It’s crucial in this scenario that your ATC has a second attachment point, aka guide mode, for belaying from above. Now 10% lighter thanks to machined windows in the body of the device, there are also improved handling features when belaying in guide mode Method #1: Belaying From Above Using A Direct Belay In the direct belay method, the belay device is secured directly on the belay anchor. Its construction is based on the early Sticht plate. In the HFM, the ATC-Guide Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. There are a few possibilities for the ratchet. We tested both ‘regular friction mode’ and ‘low friction mode’ on the 100kg test mass, and the ‘regular friction mode’ on the 200 kg test mass. They can be used as a normal belay device too. Afterward, I went back and researched different methods for doing the lowering. We have the same high and low friction sides with 2 tubes. Apr 21, 2015 · I've just started getting into multipitch climbing and am thinking of buying a belay plate with guide mode functionality. Redirect the brake strand (s) through a higher point on the anchor 2. Important: Never use guide mode for lead belaying. Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube. If you want a versatile device at a great price, we recommend the ATC Guide. Use sling on appropriate hole to release autoblock mode on the ATC Sep 2, 2019 · Guide mode (or any plaquette) is really a nice way to belay a follower but as with any climbing tool or technique the user should learn all aspects of using the tool or technique and needs to know all of the basics. If you’re counting grams, Petzl’s guide-style Reverso weighs a mere 57g compared to the Grigri’s 175g. Designed for enhanced control, it allows climbers to switch between standard and guide modes, providing added safety during belaying and rappelling. it’s worth it’s weight in gold and I used to be in the camp thinking gri Gris are stupid. Or. It has a high-friction mode (HFM) and a regular-friction mode (RFM), giving one the ability to select the appropriate level of friction for the specific belay or rappel situation. I like my GriGri for more casual climbing, but the ATC style devices are more versatile and lightweight. Till then, off your harness, or with a munter or Gri Gri are your options. 1 Definition and Purpose The ATC Guide Mode is a belay device designed to provide enhanced control during climbing operations. If you just want one that is the best compromise, I recommend the ATC Guide. Jan 3, 2014 · The GiGi has wider slots that do reduce the amount of friction when pulling the rope through the device in auto-blocking (guide) mode. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. 1 How to Set Up an ATC Guide Belay Device in Guide Mode Setting up an ATC guide belay device in guide mode is crucial for safely belaying a second climber from an anchor. This provides good safety without having to fully transition to just the munter. At just 73 grams, this featherweight belay/rappel device is optimized for ropes between 8. Guide belay with a gri gri all day everyday now baby, the slack tending is infinitely easier than hauling rope through a guide mode atc. Oct 12, 2022 · After my Reverso wore out and my ATC guide was lent out and never came home, I snagged a Pivot and have never looked back. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. Although this makes lowering an auto-blocked climber slightly harder with the ATC Guide, it also makes locking off easier during regular operation. What this means is that if your second/follower falls, the rope will bind in the device on its own. My current MOS is 0311, however, the unit was a MACS, but has now switched to a CLB. Apr 24, 2019 · The hole used to release a weighted device in auto-block mode is larger on the Reverso (left) than the Black Diamond ATC Guide (right). Sep 15, 2025 · Using ATC | Guide Mode Here is an example of using an ATC in Guide Mode, just make sure your anchors are bomb proof. Rappel with an ATC To rappel safely with an ATC the same steps need to be followed as instructed in other rappels. Accepting ropes 7. Black Diamond has a big brother to the ATC, the ATC-Guide, which includes various friction modes and auto-locking when in guide mode. Since there are circumstances when it might not self-lock, we must Mar 8, 2013 · The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. The belayer is not attached directly to the belay device. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rap Dec 22, 2022 · The ATC Guide: the ATC Guide is like the ATC’s big brother. What is the total pay a person would recieve going to the academy for terminal training? I know its about 79 a day for per diem with 37 classroom days which works out to about 385 (defore taxes) per week of normal pay. But I love Re: Help me decide If you are going to have a car then stay at the cheaper place. What are the chances of getting referred? I have applied to several ATSS positions ,but never got referred. 9K subscribers Subscribe The ATC Guide Mode is a versatile belay device offering high friction and dual guide functionality, ideal for climbers seeking enhanced control during ascents and descents. Add prusik/autoblock backup on the brake strand (s) to your harness 3. It's an elbow tendon-saver on long routes, especially with two fat ropes. This guide focuses on how to effectively and safely top belay using an ATC Guide device. Oct 26, 2017 · Save your pennies brother and buy a device that allows guide mode. May 22, 2017 · The device could be an ATC Guide but no need to restrict responses to that device, especially if someone knows of a similar device that is relatively easy to release from this mode. 5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6. Read more: Black Diamond ATC Guide review The Black Diamond ATC Guide has an excellent auto blocking mode, making it a versatile tool at an excellent price. ATC The ATC is virtually the most basic belay device you can find these days, if not the cheapest as well. SEE CURRENT BEST PRICES & DETAILS OF THE ATC GUIDE & ATC ALPINE GUIDE:ATC Guide: https://weighmyrack. The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a lightweight belay device that offers guide mode belaying options and multiple friction modes for optimal stopping power. That said, devices like ATC-Guide/Reverso are more versatile for the majority of climbers since the latter are easier and more comfortable to use for all applications—belaying How to use a climbing belay device in guide mode including lowering, Black Diamond ATC / DMM Pivot When Free Solo Climbers Fall To Their Deaths | Rock Climbing Gone Wrong Mar 19, 2024 · Overall the ATC Guide Alpine performed within the limits of the tests. (For a tutorial, see Essential Skills: Auto-Blocking Belay Devices. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rappelling, and the device's guide mode lets you belay one or two seconding Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. Any comments on the following methods, or suggestions of other methods? Method 1 Don't even lower people in guide mode. Versatility in Climbing Scenarios Guide mode significantly enhances the versatility of ATC devices, making them suitable for a wide range of climbing situations․ Its primary application is in multi-pitch climbing, where belaying from above is a common practice․ However, guide mode also proves useful in other scenarios, such as when a leader needs to belay multiple followers, or even when IMO, those are your options: Buy an ATC-Guide or Reverso or other device designed for it if you want guide mode. So, the per diem Aug 30, 2009 · Does anyone have, or know if there is a list of Army ATC facilities that have DoD civilian controllers? I checked the "ATC Facilities" link on Stuckmic but it doesn't seem to be updated or ATC facility specific. Overall, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a popular choice among climbers for its performance and user-friendly design. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. The oval-ized anchor-ho This video shows how to belay in guide mode for different devices including a grigri, ATC or Plate Device, and Munter Hitch. Follow these steps to ensure proper setup: Inspect the Equipment: Before starting, inspect your ATC guide belay device, carabiner, and rope for any signs of wear or damage. Here are some common ones, listed in increasing order of cost and/or weight: Garda hitch prusik plaquette style belay device (like a Black Diamond ATC Guide or Nov 20, 2025 · The main competitor of the ATC is the Petzl Verso, whose operation is virtually identically to the ATC. Dec 16, 2022 · Black Diamond ATC Guide The Black Diamond ATC Guide is essentially a standard tube-style device with some additional features, notably the ability to belay in guide mode. . 1. And it could have been simple as that. This technique is particularly useful when climbing as a team of three or on easier routes where lowering the climber is unlikely. Become an expert in air traffic control with real-world scenarios and expert tips. L Jun 15, 2008 · I was just wondering if anyone has figured this out yet. It allows you to take your pulling tension off the rope to rest or reset, without the load sliding backward. ATC guide is pretty much the gold standard belay device for mountaineering. The ATC Guide (specifically the guide), when set up correctly, is an "auto-blocking" (not to be confused with "auto-locking") belay device for belaying a second. The ATC is hung from your master point with one locking carabiner, then the bight of rope is clipped with a second locker. Guide mode atc doesn't slip at all, as long as it's not pressed against rock funny or anything. This engages the auto-blocking mechanism. You get so much class time that I couldn't imagine studying anything at home other than the map or going over clearances in my car on the drive home. I mean, they finally cleared out the asbestos from N90 last summer but freaking Tucson gets a $50mil+ control tower. Nov 28, 2020 · In this video you will see how to use the ATC redirect changing into Guide mode to both lower and belay a climber while they climb. ATC-Guide or ATC-Alpine Guide: Name of the product. I tried both using the toggle with a binder or sling and transition in and out of guide mode while suspended. A more compact, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC-Alpine Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains. Learn to master ATC Guide Mode with our comprehensive training. Tie yourself in tight to your anchor and use your ATC-XP to belay off your rope tie in. ) The LSD lower uses an additional biner on the anchor to allow for lowering and to defeat the autolocking function of guide mode. This is the only physical difference from a standard tube. To lower using an ATC Guide in autoblock mode: 1. We like locking off with it more than some other options because the ATC Guide’s hole to release auto-block mode is recessed. Oct 15, 2006 · Using the ATC Guide: Belay (Traditional Mode) Belaying: Auto-block Like the Reverso, one of the advantages of the ATC Guide is the option to use it as an auto-block belaying device if you wish. Themost versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. Reserve that for emergencies. Incidentally I totally disagree with Ryan Williams and Jake Jones' opinions on the lack of utility of belaying in auto block mode, but whatever. They give it to the smaller facilities to troubleshoot and debug first and by the time the big facilities get it it's already obsolete. Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. Jul 11, 2025 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. Learn how here. Easy to use, inexpensive, super easy to lower in guide mode and the slight 90 degree change in the guide bracket make a world of difference at your belay stations. These steps are important to both the setup of the rappel and then the descent. Attached to the harness, this ‘guide tube’ belay device can be also used to belay from the ground or rappel from above like any other tube device, which makes it one of the more versatile pieces of kit climbers can carry Dec 15, 2021 · Belaying From Above With an ATC – Using an ATC in Guide Mode The Black Diamond ATC Guide is one of many tube-style belay devices designed with a special guide mode attachment point. Aug 26, 2021 · Here, I present a comparison review of Black Diamond’s ATC Belay/Rappel Device (ATC) and ATC-Guide/Rappel Device (Guide)—I believe that ATCs still have an important place in rock climbing. Another key feature to Guide Mode is that it allows one leader to belay two followers at once. In a video I saw recently a bloke was belaying in guide mode but standing well away from the belay (I'm talking 5m or so) just hefting armfuls of slack through while he looked down at his second and shouted help down. We’ll cover rope compatibility, comparisons with other devices, setup for belaying and rappelling, troubleshooting, and safety best practices May 5, 2025 · Nevertheless, we believe the extra durability is worth the sacrifice of adding a couple of tenths of an ounce. This is the thumb-sized ring on the side of the ATC guide, used for attaching directly to an anchor and belaying from above. How to use a climbing belay device in guide mode including lowering, Black Diamond ATC / DMM Pivot JB Mountain Skills 34. It is possible to dynamically belay both leader and the second, while the second can be belayed by tope rope belay either with the body or from top belay Nov 3, 2020 · Best Multi-Pitch Guide Belay Devices Black Diamond ATC Guide Check Price and Reviews On Amazon This is the ATC XP, converted into a Plate Belay Device (explained below). 933 ATC Guide by American company Black Diamond is practical and very popular belay device. huge arguement. Unique to the XP in this model is the guide mode loop. Is this safe in practice? Can you stand a little way The guide mode feature enables the user to belay one or two seconding climbers off an anchor, making it a practical choice for multi-pitch climbing scenarios. This shows how to both raise and lower followers when belaying from the May 10, 2025 · 2. Passive assist braking devices offer a stronger bite, which gives your hand a break when Yes. This is the recommended method by many climbing schools today. Petzl and Black Diamond both have a more advanced version of their basic versions. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when low I was using an ATC Guide in guide mode, directly off of an anchor. Releasing an ATC in guide mode gives you very little incremental friction control; it tends to be all or nothing, unlike the gradual release of friction Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep. This video is on how to use a Black Diamond ATC Guide in Autolocking mode off the anchor. It is primarily used by climbers and belayers to manage rope tension securely, especially in Feb 15, 2024 · Tube Devices with Guide Mode Guides and multi-pitch climbers are the main users of this feature and they tend to prefer to carry a tube style device with guide mode. You can can rig an ATC guide as you're imagining for use as an ascender, and quite effectively, but trying to rappel in that configuration is going to be very frustrating, if not downright dangerous. Step By Step Guide Using An Aperture-style Self-braking Belay Device (E. Here we use the rope looking at Some ATC-style belay devices have a 'guide mode' function - they can be set up in a way which locks automatically if a climber falls. 1 and 8. Simple and effective, it's changed climbing. Gorgeous area (except winter) not big winter sports folk. ATC Guide Or Reverso) Tie the end of the rope onto your Directly belaying off the anchor is a great technique when providing a belay from the top. I'm comfortable going hands free as long as I can see it's hanging in the proper position. Nov 26, 2013 · These are my opinions after quite a bit of use - and I still continue to use all three depending on circumstances. Feb 3, 2019 · The progress capture (aka ratchet), is a critical part of a hauling system. g. However, it does have drawbacks like Dec 11, 2023 · The ATC guide combined all the things climbers wanted and needed from the ATC and XP and added a loop to hang it from an anchor. To do this, you simply attach the device to your anchor power point via the special clip in point (see picture below), and belay away. This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP. Aug 15, 2017 · I found the ATC guide to be pretty nice for SRT, but as previously mentioned it can be a pain to switch from ascent to descent. 9 to 9mm. 65 5-5-8 if you read the note it reads "is not normally added to wake Hello Everyone, I recently applied for the ATSS position in Ronkonkoma NY & Westbury , NY for Communications Technician & Automation Technician. Oct 31, 2025 · ATC - Alpine Guide Alpinists reveled in rappelling, belaying, and using the ATC's guide mode so much that Black Diamond designed its classic belay device with a lighter, more compact device. New ATC Guide sports lightening holes and allows two different levels of friction and the option of using in auto-blocking mode to bring up your second. Others have their preferences for similar designs from other brands, but I am pretty confident more mountains have been climbed with the ATC guide than any other. Compared to the original ATC Guide, the Black Diamond ATC - Alpine Guide accommodates skinnier ropes so you can alpine climb with twin ropes a little easier. Learn or review skills for multi-pitch climbing, like belaying a second with a REVERSOAthlete: Neil Gresham Aug 5, 2025 · See our guide to the best climbing belay devices of 2025, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope diameters, belaying a follower, and more. Mostly used in multi-pitch climbing and also great for having a su Jun 22, 2019 · Consider an ascension of a single rope with an ATC guide in locking mode and a foot loop with a friction hitch, as described in this answer: Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope with rock climbing gear? I assume we're talking about a follower being belayed with ATC in guide/autoblocking mode? Then even the most determinedly incompetent/malicious belayer cannot produce more than a factor one fall. During the 200kg test series the rope became ‘jammed’ in the device after arresting the load and could not be released. Also, like a standard tube, the two slots allow for rappelling the route. I have gone to school for ATC and have my two year CTI certificate, but with the freeze in selection boards, I am playing the waiting game with Dec 28, 2011 · Do some facilities in the FAA do direct hiring? If so, how does it work? Jul 29, 2011 · The guys at TVC sound awesome! very welcoming facility, great brand new tower. I have my FCC GROL w/radar endorsement Jun 16, 2017 · Overview When belaying a follower in guide mode, the belay device will be clipped to the anchor, with a locking carabiner holding the rope in place. With an ovalized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. Nov 13, 2007 · The BD ATC-Guide is a tube-style belay/rappel device with friction ridges. 10% lighter than its predecessor with improved feeding and pulling in guide mode, the versatile Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device offers multiple friction modes for belaying and rappelling. " When we're on multi-pitch missions or alpine linkups, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is always clipped to our harness. Mar 20, 2025 · Guide Mode is a specialized belay technique used in climbing‚ particularly with devices like the Black Diamond ATC-Guide. A more compact, lighter version of the versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC-Alpine Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains. During Enroute atleast, generally one of the 3 teachers would stay during lunch and help So to clear it up, does it mean you have been selected to the next round of applicants if your application has been received and reviewed? If this thread is pointless, take it down mods EDIT: The reviewed part is just the time "you" review the status. Once the lowering is complete, the munter is easily removable and belay can continue from the atc in guide mode. Sep 30, 2016 · When I was using the Pivot in “guide mode” (a term referring to the assisted braking function) and releasing the brake to lower a second, the Pivot performed exceptionally well and better than the Reverso, ATC Guide and other devices. Nov 29, 2023 · What is ATC Guide Mode? ATC Guide Mode is an advanced belay device feature enabling dual friction settings and auto-locking functionality. com/belay/black-diamond-atc-guide-0ATC Alpine Guide: htt Put a munter to your belay loop on the brake strand, then continue as you have been to release the atc. In this respect it is very much like its predecessor, the BD ATC-XP, and innumerable other similar devices. Sep 29, 2024 · Black Diamond ATC-Guide⁚ A Comprehensive Guide This guide explores the Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay/rappel device, highlighting its versatility, improved design, multiple friction modes, and guide mode functionality for belaying multiple climbers. I'm sure the instructions that come with it include all sorts of CYA lawyer stuff, however. Clip to an anchor and have a great top belay for your partner. Nov 6, 2022 · The ATC belay device is ubiquitous at gyms and crags. This mode is particularly useful for lead belaying and lowering, ensuring secure rope management in various Black Diamond's most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. Climbing How To INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE ATC-GUIDE/ATC-ALPINE GUIDE The ATC-Guide is a variable friction belay/rappel device designed specifically for belaying and rappelling during climbing and mountaineering. Nov 18, 2025 · The guide mode is clutch on multi-pitch climbs, and I like how it feeds and catches smoothly with different rope diameters. I still carry a guide atc for rappelling or possible unique situations. I am one of the old guys on MP and I can assure you guide mode is a game changer when it comes to mult pitch climbing, and opens doors to safer, faster/efficient and more comfortable belaying. An ATC Guide or a Reverso is known as a "plaquette" device and will typically self-lock under the load of the falling climber. 6 Belaying in Guide Mode on rope belays with a Black Diamond ATC Guide, DMM Pivot etc. 5mm – 11mm it’s tied for the widest rope range of all the guide-mode tubular devices (same as Petzl’s Reverso 4 and Simond’s Tucan 2). Aug 14, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. We only use this to bring up followers and we only use it if we are. 🤔💪👍. The rope from the climber below is then threaded through the device in a specific manner. Studying is over rated in OKC anyway. Just use a prussik backup when you rappel. Climb safe my friend. It functions and is used the same way as the ATC, except it has an additional loop for belaying in guide mode. Feb 12, 2024 · Overall, the Black Diamond ATC-XP is almost identical to the ATC-Guide in properties, only it lacks an extra loop for guide mode and is 25% cheaper (give or take). There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. Already a massively versatile belay and abseil device, the Black Diamond ATC Guide has again improved. Teachers are there to help you. To provide complete free range of movement try using an oval The Black Diamond ATC is a durable, tried and tested product that will improve the likelihood of a safer rappel when used correctly. Jan 3, 2020 · Might be a stupid question, but while delaying my second the other day using guide mode from the anchor, I got to thinking. It’s a must-have tool and technique for anyone who wants to tackle multi-pitch climbs. How to use a climbing belay device in guide mode including lowering, Black Diamond ATC / DMM Pivot How To Use A Petzl GriGri + NEW GriGri+ | Climbing Daily Ep. These skills are taught individually on Hard Ice 1 but here we Mar 31, 2010 · Here is a link directly to the first-hand account What the leader did wrong was to NOT redirect the brake strand (s) before lowering. Jul 16, 2014 · This setup, which is also called “guide mode,” automatically stops the rope from moving through the device—or “catches” the follower—if he falls. Jul 4, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a versatile belay device used for climbing and rappelling with double ropes, featuring an auto-locking guide mode function for added safety and control always. Use your ATC-XP to belay off your harness and redirect the rope to a piece above you. Black Diamond's most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. My favored way for a long free-hanging lower involves techniques used in other self-rescue circumstances. Guide mode is great, but here in the UK especially, we do love to use the rope to build a belay and most instructions for guide mode show sling or cordlette setups. The oval-ized anchor-ho Mar 2, 2015 · Like most guide-mode tubular devices you’ll find it easy to belay from a fixed anchor or from your harness. Sep 16, 2024 · If I had an ATC without the guide mode and wanted to direct belay off of the anchor I would probably use an Italian to belay the second and then switch to my ATC for an indirect belay for the leader. lxeibr jazoq vuzk uao spvti lepa lspvtwj geudg omppfqyh pizz zoak hbpn bycquyo srrrw iqdf