Best quad anchor with 180cm sling I was out doing a private class with a guide and we were talking about something when I said, “Oh yeah, and maybe you could bring a quad for that. The quad anchor is a popular choice, but usually requires a 180 cm doubled sling or bulky cordelette. Dynex is a brand name for Learn how to set up a quad anchor with just a pair of 120 cm slings, a great alternative when you don't have a 180 cm doubled sling or bulky cordelette. Weight: 30cm 11grams/60cm 20 grams/120cm 38 grams/180cm 56 grams/240cm 74 grams Strength: 22kN Width: 10mm/. 39" CE and UIAA Certified EN566 Mar 15, 2022 · Use a long cordelette or sling to create a fast, safe, and easy self-equalizing quad anchor Lightweight and compact Dyneema slings. The third top rope anchor for Tech Tip Tuesday with @seanisaacguiding and @howtoiceclimb The quad anchor is a self-adjusting configuration that offers better equalization than a directionally equalized anchor like the figure eight or girth hitch. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. Not too short, not too long, works on horizontal bolts and with a little adjusting, vertically offset ice screws. ” He immediately thought I was talking about a cordelette or sling anchor that people typically use for a 2 bolt anchor (doubled with limiting knots making a master point with 4 strands). Dec 1, 2020 · Here is a little description of the quad anchor and why I like to just clip two strands. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. I think 180 cm is about the sweet spot. Quad anchors are mainly used for sport climbing or trad climbing where the Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. 180cm slings work fine for quad anchors on most climbs set up for top roping 240cm slings are just a little longer than 180cm Great for wrapping around trees Good for more challenging anchor setups Can be tripled to shorten length or add unnecessary strength to masterpoints Cordelette 5mm - 5. Pull the two loops downward between the bolts and in the intended direction of pull (direction of the climber). How long should the cordelette be, and is there a "best" diameter? I have seen anywhere from 14ft to 30ft for length and that a minimum diameter is around 5. There are many ways to set up a top rope anchor and this article covers 7 of them. Slings commonly come in intervals of 60cm and can be referred to as such: single length = 60cm, double length = 120cm, etc. Jun 2, 2024 · Super strong, redundant everywhere, but no built in tether. Make a three-piece anchor with a 120 cm sling? Yep! Learn all about it here. Alpine Savvy on Instagram: "Quad anchor with two 120 cm slings . Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad Jun 7, 2024 · What's the best sling length? For me, the 120 cm is a bit too short. Now sling length is another aspect to consider. Explore AlpineSavvy. Loop tied with a tape bend, double fisherman’s bend or sewn. com Disadvantages - The quad will extend slightly should either anchor point fail. What sling to use when? Most slings and runners are simple in Mar 2, 2016 · To find the best sling width, make a choice with the following factors: intended use, material type, handling / dexterity, price, weight and mental comfort -- all explained in this post. Sep 2, 2025 · Universal sling for rock, alpine, and multi-pitch climbing Lightweight 8mm Dyneema construction minimizes pack weight Durable Contact stitching ensures smooth handling at seams 180cm length ideal for extending gear or creating anchors Robust and reliable for critical climbing setups Weighs just 53g for ultra-light performance on technical climbs Item #MAMU62B Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. An essential part of any alpine climber's rack, Black Diamond Dynex Runners are indispensable for building anchors, slinging natural features or extending placements to reduce rope drag. My pick Like most aspects of climbing, there are many ways to build a good quad anchor. Here is a clever way to rig it so your master point is high, and it's very easy to untie after loading: tie it with a bowline on a bight. Learn how to choose the type you need. We built a full anchor and broke it, over and over again on our Bolt Buster concrete slab and then again on our slack snap machine. Reply reply What's the best sling length? For me, the 120 cm is a bit too short. SINGING ROCK slings are suitable for creating an anchor point, protection or as an aid sling for rope ascent. What if you don't have that gear with you? . After both partners are pre-rigged, unclip the quad and send it down with the first person. Very lightweight sling with exceptional durability, due to HMPE (high-modulus polyethylene) construction. The quad anchor Is a popular option, as it gives good equalization, full redundancy, and convenient dual clipping points. This quick tip goes over how to build a "quad" climbing anchor. Made in Czech Republic with 100 % guarantee of quality and safety. Not a bad option for multipitch sport routes or trad routes with bolted anchors. May 31, 2022 · The 180cm sling length is ideal for making a quad anchor when bolts are placed relatively close together. What’s a Personal Anchor System? A personal anchor system (PAS), sometimes called a lanyard or tether, is a piece of climbing equipment that directly connects the climber to a climbing anchor system. This particular size is perfect for a bolted quad anchor for the multi pitch routes. Where dyneema will get super tight when weighted these slings won?t bight down on themselves. You may have noticed that choosing a sling requires a certain level of climbing know-how. But, it usually requires a 180 cm doubled sling or bulky cordelette. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad Oct 29, 2023 · for a sling, i’ve heard that for a quad you need 240cm of it. Shop a wide selection of Mammut Contact Sling Dyneema 8. Also, try to make your anchor efficient and Jul 27, 2023 · 3 lengths of quad slings . Double the runner and get the stitching positioned towards the end before tying the first of two over-hand knots. This gives you two clipping points at two different levels, which can be helpful in certain situations. The quad anchor is popular for a lot of reasons. Jun 7, 2024 · What's the best sling length? For me, the 120 cm is a bit too short. ) Double length sewn runner girth hitched through the harness tie in points, overhand knot tied for rappel carabiner and device, locker clipped to end. PUR’ANNEAU is particularly supple, making to easy to handle. Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad This video shows how to build a quad anchor and all the different details of when to use it and how it can be modified. Apr 7, 2021 · The quad anchor, typically tied with a 180 cm Dyneema sling, is an increasingly popular choice for bolted anchors or ice climbing. Jun 10, 2025 · A double loop bowline on a bight is a good starting point for various types of anchors. I think I like quad anchors now! Special surprise 103KN test at Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. Here’s how AMGA Alpine Guide Grant Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Quads are nothing new in the climbing world and the point of this reel isn’t to teach you the ins and outs of them. The quad is already an over engineered anchor and you could build an equally strong master point or clove hitch anchor with half the cord and faster adjustability. But with BOBs on either end, a quad tied with a 240cm sling lands at an ideal length for belaying from above. Best Situation To Use The Quad Anchor To equalize two bomber anchor points such as a two-bolt anchor. This simple setup meets SERENE, can change directionality, arms can be used to personally anchor into, can hold 2 tie-in points with Jan 16, 2025 · The 180cm sling is for anchors. Nov 5, 2025 · I'm using a pre-tied quad made from a 180 cm Dyneema sling, but the anchor could be pretty much anything you like. In a quad, all these materials would probably be fine, but 7+ mm cord or dyneema is. Note, if you’re using a pre-rigged or stacked rappel, you only need one anchor for descending. The quad anchor, typically tied with a 180 cm dyneema sling, is an increasingly popular choice for bolted anchors or ice climbing. 1,603 likes, 20 comments - seanisaacguiding on September 14, 2021: "Tech Tip Tuesday: Quad Anchor The quad anchor is a self-adjusting configuration that offers better equalization than a directionally equalized anchor like the figure eight or girth hitch. 28 likes, 2 comments - blueridgemountainguides on December 10, 2024: "The days of the 21’ cordellette quad anchor are over! The triple length, AKA 180cm, AKA 6’ sling makes a great length for quad anchors on bolts or screws. , a quad anchor on two bolts, or a standard 3-piece gear anchor w/ mas Tying a quad anchor sling is a fantastic way to create a redundant, self-equalizing anchor for climbing. Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. The days of the 21’ cordellette quad anchor are over! The triple length, AKA 180cm, AKA 6’ sling makes a great length for quad anchors on bolts or screws. -- Versatile sewn runners for building anchors, slinging natural features and extending placements on wandering routes, Black Diamond Nylon Runners offer durable and classic functionality. Sep 1, 2023 · Need to purchase the best climbing slings and runners for your trad climbing adventures? Our expert advice will help, as we've purchased and tested over 30 different slings in the past decade. Dec 7, 2023 · This name doesn’t come from the anchor style, but instead because it is four times longer than a shoulder length sling (60cm). This can shock-load the remaining piece (s). When multi-pitch climbing you should be aware that most professionals actually recommend using a clove hitch and locking carabiner as a personal anchor. 4 things to consider: Is your anchor - Strong, Solid, Secure and Redundant. For a multi pitch, after you build a proper anchor, you can use the bottom carabiner on the quickdraw as a place to hold your backpack, or maybe a sling with extra gear. com for 400+ tips like this. Be sure to keep the bar tack out of the way, high up near the bolt/carabiner. It can work if the bolts are very close together and you use a small diameter sling, like 8 mm. But 5mm in most cases is too thin, go for a double length dyneema sling or try to find some 6 or 7mm. Let's look at a few ways to set this up. That's way too much stuff. Versatile sewn runners for building anchors, slinging natural features and extending placements on wandering routes, Black Diamond Nylon Runners offer durable and classic functionality. A quadruple length sling (240cm) is the most often-used material for this configuration, but a 180cm sling (triple length) or cordelette can also be used. This sling works so much better then dyneema counter parts for tying for and equalizing your anchor. . For the complete article: 1) See link in Bio, 2) Go here: Bobby shows his favorite ways to build a top rope anchor on 2 bolts. . There's a broad middle ground that gives you redundancy for your hauling system, is fast to set up, sufficiently strong, and has no knots to untie. What's the best sling length? For me, the 120 cm is a bit too short. Here’s how @grant_price_ likes to carry the quad anchor on his harness. 5mm. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. Nov 17, 2023 · The quad anchor Is a popular option, as it gives good equalization, full redundancy, and convenient dual clipping points. This kit uses a 8mmX240cm sling, 2 non lockers and a HMS Strike Screw. It's self equalizing, provides separate clip-in points and you don't have to break it down for I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. Dec 7, 2023 · If you have a 240 cm length sling, it can be annoyingly long to use on a two bolt anchor, especially rigged as a quad. but then ive read some people saying that’s way too long & they use a 180cm fine to build a quad anchor. Perfect for alpine climbing adventures. A quadruple length sling (240cm) is the most often-used material for Nov 17, 2023 · Quad anchor with two 120 cm slings . If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. Mike shows how to build a quad anchor with 7mm cordelette. In this episode, Mike goes over how to use a quad anchor, setting up a top down belay, top roping with a quad, and the nuances of clipping into the anchor. It's compact, super strong, offers good equalization and redundancy, and has Jul 12, 2020 · Exploring some options you have with a very uncommon size of sling. Sep 30, 2019 · Here's a slick way to use a quad anchor to set up two adjacent top ropes on same set of bolts. He Aug 11, 2018 · In a nutshell: Can a 240cm dynex runner (~8 feet loop) replace my 7mm cordelette for most anchor setups? I. An alternative: Use a pair of 120 cm slings. Here's a detailed breakdown of how to construct one: I came to this nice chained anchor at a good ledge and set up a quad with a 180cm sling. 5 kN 6mm - 7. - Since the quad needs to be doubled up, it is difficult to equalize anchors where the placements are far apart. Jan 1, 2015 · A fast and simple anchor that is equalized and redundant. A small quad made from a 180cm sling seems to be among the best pre-rigged anchors. The drop-tested length was Jul 7, 2024 · The quad (named because it has 4 strands on each leg) is the absolute queen of 2 point sling anchor systems because it’s self equalising, super strong (even with knotted dynemma like this) and has two master points. However this new way is my new favorite way to From left to right: 120cm Dyneema sling, 120cm nylon sling and a 240cm Dyneema sling. Limiting overhands tied 20cm apart – 10cm either side of centre. Using a "quad runner" - or a 240cm sling - you can build a self-equalizing anchor that is gre AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) Instructor Jeff Ward explains how to build a quad anchor. 0 180cm at DICK’S Sporting Goods and order online for the finest quality products from the top brands you trust. 39" CE and UIAA Certified EN566 Jul 10, 2023 · Keep reading to learn about personal anchor systems and how you can incorporate them into your climbing. Learn how to build a quad anchor, along with some of its primary uses. Each size is also color-coded for quick and easy identification on your harness. A sling available in 60 cm, 120 cm, 180 cm, super lightweight, flexible and solid for climbing and mountaineering. Keep slack out of your static anchors. What if you don't have that gear with you? Here's an alternative: Simply use a pair of 120 cm slings. #anchors #trad #tradclimbing #iceclimbing #rockclimbing #techtiptuesday #techtips". This review includes 12 of the best and most popular choices available today, which can be used for extending protection to reduce rope drag, building and equalizing anchors, and even as threads or slung Mar 18, 2020 · A big wall anchor does not have to be a 25 carabiner engineering project, nor modern minimalist. Here's one application, the “fisheye”. Aug 16, 2021 · First time multi-pitching? Not sure how to build an anchor? Check out this ultimate guide to get you started in the right direction! Dec 14, 2023 · If you have a 240 cm sling, it can be annoyingly long to use on a two bolt anchor, especially rigged as a quad. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. 5 Kn My pick Like most aspects of climbing, there are many ways to build a good quad anchor. It has essentially replaced other self-adjusting anchors like the sliding X and equalette. Here's a variation, the offset quad. Apr 11, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. The name is derived from the fact that a Lightweight and compact Dyneema slings. The quad anchor Is a popular choice, but usually requires a 180 cm doubled sling or bulky cordelette. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. I like having a little more flexibility in building my 2 and 3 piece anchors, so I use a 240cm sling instead of a 180cm sling. Nov 21, 2018 · This is a quick tip in order to fully utilize your space at the belay station and to make your day run a bit more efficiently weather your single pitch climb Nov 2, 2017 · Building a Mini-Quad To build a Mini-Quad start with a 120 cm Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner. Jan 2, 2023 · Quad anchor with two 120 cm slings . e. But, it usually requires a 180 cm Dec 27, 2021 · Method 2 - Use a “real” anchor (quad, 120 or 60 cm sling) Whatever anchor system you used on the way up, you can probably also use it on the way down. NOTE: 20cm has been chosen as a distance that limits fall distance while still allowing movement side to side. A double length sling is often sufficient to construct a good anchor from a pair of bolts. The aramid sling can be used as a tether (I usually just clove hitch myself with the rope), as a spare runner, or a foot loop that easily unties after loading. These are often called “double length” slings as they are twice as long as your standard “shoulder length” sling. Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. Lightweight and abrasion-resistant 10mm Dynex Runners are perfect for anchors, slinging features, or reducing rope drag during alpine climbing. It's especially popular for top-roping and multi-pitch climbing where you need a strong, adaptable anchor. (If you want a tether, take another 120 cm sling, girth hitch it to your harness, and clip that into the anchor. I attached myself to the anchor with a clove hitch so I could adjust it long and sit to belay from the top, and then easily shorten it when I stood to lead belay for the next pitch. In fact, tied with overhands, the quad is best constructed with a triple length sling (180cm). ANNEAU Sewn sling ANNEAU is an open loop sling available in four lengths, color-coded for easy identification of length. To construct, double the sling then tie an overhand knot about 10-15cm from each end to clip to the bolts. It has essentially replaced other self-adjusting anchors like the sliding X. Feb 1, 2021 · 2 point floating anchor 90cm loop end to end (for most variations),120cm end to end (for the cords only) and 180cm for the quad. Here's yet another way to tie a quad anchor with a quad sling, I think I'm up to three different videos on my channel about how to do this one thing. Oct 15, 2021 · The quad anchor is a rock climbing system that evenly distributes weight between multiple anchors, allowing climbers to easily move from pitch to pitch. Aug 4, 2021 · The quad anchor is a popular choice, but usually requires a 180 cm doubled sling or bulky cordelette. Adding in the draw on one side is fine but offers less of an advantage than you’d think most of the time. This highly abrasion-resistant, lightweight material won't weigh you down and absorbs less water than nylon, making it perfect for big Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. I came to this nice chained anchor at a good ledge and set up a quad with a 180cm sling. I climbed there 1-2x/week for 5 years with nothing but my rack and an extra 180cm sling or two for gear anchors and never came close to having any sort of scenario that would necessitate any of the 'just in case' stuff you're bringing, nor did I ever even climb with anyone who brought that stuff. If you're not familiar with those terms, we definitely recommend taking an alpinism course. Clip the sling into two bolts. are they both equally as strong? See full list on climbing. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. As far as the specifications for building a quad or any anchor for that matter its better to go thicker than thinner. Tie a figure 8 or figure 9 in the sling to create the Master Point. Really depends on the scenario. zqhe typr fzs itfrh yoirq licdxddq shkbpr pkznk phknru artpq zds xglnqgwg pqj rzgut njz