What are slings used for in climbing gear reddit This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device, replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling. These can be custom items meant only to carry light gear, fully load-bearing manufactured gear racks capable of doubling for a sling, or simply a regular sling used to rack gear. Depends on your local climbing area. Keep slack out of your static anchors. For lanyard sets, 120% do NOT use a DIY sling + carabiner setup. What were the conditions leading to your gear failure? Edit: As well as cams failing and nuts shearing. Share Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Sep 24, 2024 · Gear sling A gear sling is a loop of webbing used to organize or carry equipment. + rope. (Check out Extension Basics for a quick refresher course. All my draws are on a shoulder sling. I recently started climbing outdoors. And yes we are scared of falling. Slings are a close second. Get some pear shape Climber submitted reviews, questions answered, and deals posted on gear across the web. Slings should be replaced any time you buy used gear but most people never have it done. I bought my own gear, but have a tendency to climb with more experienced trad climbers, and they prefer to use their own gear, so mine for the most part just gather dust back at home. For a PAS, I highly recommend Petzl's Connect Adjust. If it can be used as a prusik it can be used as a sling. Doesn’t have to be cheap but the cheapest you’d safely recommend. Cordelette for any self rescue scenario, load release MMO hitch, plus it’s a prussik and foot loop combo in itself. Basic, strong, mostly-redundant anchors are quick and simple to build with gear that will be reused (slings can be used for chockstones>spikes>extending gear etc). Summit packs are made to sit up high on your back so that you can get to gear on the back of your harness easily. I've been bouldering at a gym for two years and recently started sport climbing, too. The different manufacturers will have published specifications for their equipment. edit: Also quick and easy to do a bucket load of stoppers. A PAS can be convenient, but slings do fine. See full list on rei. Use two to three different drops of color to differentiate from someone else's gear. 1957 article on use of slings by Jan and Herb Conn. This will eliminate the need for nylon slings, prusik cord, and a PAS. 64 votes, 89 comments. I experimented with having a single draw with each group of nuts, and it does make the first placement easier, but takes some attention to reset the leftovers with the next single draw. There are some times when I've lucked out and the cam slings were in like new condition and have used them for a while. I’d prefer beginner priced gear. This technique reduces the number of carabiners you carry, thereby reducing weight. I was wondering if most of us do it? I am from Canada and there's not really a place to have your gear reslung. rebel, ozone, top gun) and slings at fair prices, haven't tried out their biners and crashpads yet edelrid (germany): great ropes and quickdraws chillaz (austria): cool clothes for climbing and bouldering of course bd, petzl My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. Quoted from the article: When to Retire a Climbing Rope Frequent use (weekly): 1 year or sooner Regular use (few times per month): 1–3 years Also: A carabiner that has been dropped a significant distance should also be retired (dropped ‘biners can suffer damage but still appear intact We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. I've seen this done before with people cutting off the leg loops and just using the waist belt as an over the shoulder sling. Realistically if you are going with a guide or someone experienced they will have most of the group gear. It's super simple to use, and really easy and fast to adjust and reset. I have not used the hood wire for sport draws, but they are nice for racking trad gear (or alpine draws) . Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Nylon webbing is cheap and easy to buy in bulk. If you're climbing with a gear sling, be sure these slings are on top of the gear sling and that they hang under the opposite arm of the gear sling. Thanks I’m advance. A real Via ferrata kit isn't really necessary, but I'd spend a couple bucks on better stuff. Mixed articles from climbing forums lead me to believe that 12 votes, 51 comments. Leg loops are now shoulder straps, we move the buckles around, cut out the gear loops and put them on some webbing, added the chest strap with some DIY reslinging cams? Heyo! I've got some older cams I'd like reslung, is there any reason not to just cut the existing sling and tie on some new webbing with a water knot? I'm only asking because the webbing I have one and is a bit wider then the original sling, so it doesn't fit as nicely. Slings: not worth it Rope: not worth it Quick draws: sure. , to the body and stitching. Most common use - hanging gear in the tree if I'm trying to be a little more discrete or avoid park dogs from peeing on bags etc. You can send the cam back to the manufacturer for repair. This product is "#3 in climbing ropes". So I was thinking, I end up usually having to extend my placements due to the wandering nature of the climbing area I usually climb at and if I place 12 pieces, I end up just adding a sling to 12 pieces. Title. Failing gear afaik is seldom the cause of Climbers often clip in directly to bolted or gear anchors directly with slings, and climbing above them with no dynamic component is when things get dangerous. Some people suggest that you resling your cams every five years. Nov 11, 2021 · Sling Inspect the sling as you would any nylon climbing gear, looking for aging, bleaching, fraying, etc. A sling is an item of climbing equipment consisting of a tied or sewn loop of webbing. " includes gear to build an anchor and gear to attach oneself to a (bolted) anchor to set up a rappel if necessary. In this order: Shoes, harness, atc, rope, draws, slings, a set of nuts, single rack of cams from finger tips to glory hands, double it up, wide sizes, micro cams, aiders, rps, another rope, ascenders, pulley, haulbag, porta-ledge, pin hammer and some lost arrows, anything else you need to get up the damn thing. crampons, ace, screws (if applicable) + rock gear e. re-slinging trad gear? Last night my friend (who is probably reading this) and I were discussing the safety of using accessory cord to re-sling hexcentrics. The earlier on you can get over the fear that something will break the quicker you will be able to learn safe techniques and enjoy climbing. However I've seen people make their anchor many other different ways. I have a full set of hexes that are old enough that rope was used to create the slings. Sep 1, 2023 · Need to purchase the best climbing slings and runners for your trad climbing adventures? Our expert advice will help, as we've purchased and tested over 30 different slings in the past decade. First and second pic here are common anchors. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. I use a small/cheap carabiner on the gear side (old neutrinos or nano 22s) and bigger snag-free carabiner on rope side (Hoodwires). Additional bail option to leave a cordelette. trueBecause everybody always throws in the name you would expect, here's something else: rock pillars/ocun (czech republic): really good shoes (eg. Rope, cams, quick draws, and all that jazz. The sleeping bag might need some cleaning, but should otherwise be okay as well. A couple of my thoughts. . I'm collecting all the gear I need for it but I'm confused on what I need to buy for cleaning routes. I make sure all of my draws have key lock instead, that provides the same function as the hood wire. Things don't just break unless they are being used wrong! It’s easier to flip out of the way in tight spaces. If that's your SWL, using the 5:1 ratio, you'd want 2000lb (~10kN) rated gear. I use some normal climbing slings that are 30cm for dangley normal draws and they are great Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. Most instructional videos seem to use slings, however as I read more into it this can apparently be a death trap, as a static material sling (which most are) can break with fall factor and weight of not that much. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. If it’s condition is such that you wouldn’t use it as a sling it shouldn’t be used as a prusik. minimum 8 alpine draws (60 cm Dyneema slings paired with two lightweight wiregate biners) Trango phase sets are the cheapest or find cheap wires and Dyneema slings at some gear shops and you're set. You can either cut up your cordelette, cut up one of your nice expensive Dyneema slings or take my sage advice about carrying at least one tied runner. Not a thing. Metolius only charges $3 per cam to clean, inspect, lube and resling their cams, and they will do it free on any cams newer than 5 years old. I would buy (and have bought) used cams, carabiners, stoppers, climbing shoes. Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your Hey climbing community. cams, nuts, slings etc. The home of Climbing on reddit. What is the ideal sling length? The length of the sling determines what you can use it for when climbing. But it's like $15 (extra vs sling) you'll live to tell the tale. We went all out. Working Carabiners The "extra slings, carabiners, etc. So the easiest, and I think, safest way to resling is just use a basket hitch with a sewn sling. A dogbone keeps the biners from spinning around. However, learning how to place traditional gear will give you a lot more Buying my first sling I've never bought a sling before and I wanted some expert input on the matter. Mainly because I purchases my sport draws, then built a trad rack with alpine draws. Also old harnesses are great for weighted deadhangs/pullups. You can also grab the dogbone. The metal is in good condition so I went ahead and replaced the slings with brand new accessory cord. Rope access gear is a different beast with thicker, more durable (and heavier) rope and rigging devices designed to work with it. However, it can feel a bit more cluttered when you have a rack of gear and a bunch of slings hanging around your Jul 10, 2023 · A personal anchor system (PAS), sometimes called a lanyard or tether, is a piece of climbing equipment that directly connects the climber to a climbing anchor system. Climbing gear has been designed for climbing. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. It's time to retire some of my climbing gear. This review includes 12 of the best and most popular choices available today, which can be used for extending protection to reduce rope drag, building and equalizing anchors, and even as threads or slung Sling (climbing) A 240 centimetres (94 in) Sling A climbing anchor equalized using Dyneema slings. Only an idiot would believe this junk and then go on to buy new gear at REI. I have separate draws for trad and sport. Cam Cleaning and Maintenance Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. what do you guys think about racking up with the cams and slings already attached? Would it make it a bit more efficient? Or would the limited racking space from cam and draw and the cluster Definitely not gunna buy a drill to set up bolts and stuff so I’m planning to top rope using rocks/trees. Here's what I'd recommend: 30m static rope (9-11 mm) 1 or 2 25ft cordolettes 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. From what I've read, soft climbing gear can deteriorate over time. A PAS is a critical climbing tool because it allows you to safely transfer your body weight off the climbing rope and onto a climbing anchor or belay station. Any other tips on ways to upcycle 305 votes, 96 comments. Another question would be why slings are rated at 20+kn at all? Knots, sharp edges, age, use all reduce the strenght during a fall. I was cleaning up my climbing gear today after an unfortunate incident during a muddy approach, and I started thinking about alpine draws. Come to think of it why is so much climbing gear made of static material? Alot of falling happens in climbing : / Such as carabiners unclipping in a fall, ropes cutting, knots failing, slings breaking, cross-loaded carabiners snapping, etc. Also if you use it as a way of securing yourself to the anchor and you slip the forces can get pretty big as there is no elastic part (climbing rope) in the chain. A lot of stuff like this is all over amazon, products that call themselves climbing gear or something but are absolutely not safe for this purpose. I know the responsible thing is to destroy the gear to make sure nobody ever uses it, but it feels super wasteful! I already made a nice rope doormat a few years back, and slings/or anything loop shaped can be used to organise quickdraws, biners etc. It holds knots better and doesn’t melt as quickly as Dyneema Nah, double length slings are my go-to. Don't do that. These items I would be weary because of unknown use, care, tear and wear, etc. it's dangerous. Typically sling lengths can measure between 60 to 180 cm. Makes it easy to mark a hundred or so 'biners at once. Sometimes if I'm trying out a new hammock set-up, but I typically use adjustable length webbing or rope set-up. Realistically, it's probably fine, but if you have this nagging doubt the whole time you're climbing it's going to be a problem. You’ll also probably hear different opinions (including some along the lines of “the companies just want Uni groups tend to teach rope anchors because they are quick and easy and require less gear to be carried. You would need your own harness, crampons, axe and maybe some camping gear. I was a bit concerned about this and started to discuss with another buddy Mar 13, 2024 · Every beginning trad climber learns the basics of “extension”—using slings or quickdraws to create more space between the rope and a piece of gear. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). Someone said I need slings (to hold my weight on the anchors instead of the rope) but I'm not sure what I should purchase for that. For heavy loads I prefer cord, as I can rig a releasable load. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. So you need to know exactly what length fits your requirements. The snag-free biner helps when extending from a tripled up draw. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. 152 votes, 56 comments. The items you listed should all be fine bought used. Climbing outdoors can put you in unpredictable situations and requires far more logistics than gym climbing even on a boring day. Aug 31, 2020 · We field tested 10 of the best climbing slings and runners in 2025 to see which nylon and dyneema offerings are worth your money. I will recommend Crag Daddy by Patagonia Get a 6mm or bigger accessory cord and learn how to tie a quad anchor, purcell-prusik, and auto block. Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. Not doing this every day. Especially untrue if the soft goods are nylon instead of Dyneema and you bought new instead of used. Wondering how everyone keeps their gear organized, particularly on the way to the crag/in their pack. Get helmets. I want to be able to use it for read in the future but also use it for tying off and cleaning lead routes. For example, with 2 slings instead of 1, with a cordette in a quad instead of a sling, or just 2 quickdraws (is the lase one somehow unsafe?) I'm curious about For all your soft gear (Rope, slings cord etc) just run it looking for frays, soft spots, core sticking through the sheath. Quick question, how frequently do you all clean your climbing harness and how exactly do you all clean your rock climbing harness (used only for indoor climbing)? I was trying to find a YouTube video or post but didn’t come across anything on my initial search. Most common applications are alpine draws, slinging e. I don’t buy any soft good used where a single point failure would cause death (like ropes, harnesses, or slings used in anchors). Its stronger to connect 2 slings with a carabiner or use a long sling, but it doesn't strike me as that silly of a thing to do as long as you know the outcome. Depends on what you're doing. Inspect all your gear to make sure it is in safe working order before using it every time. Great for making a repelling set up, can use them for gear racks, can make double length dog bones out of em, set up anchors. This is probably mostly a climbing myth perpetuated by the article that's quoted in the above link Been a long time since I used 60 cm nylon slings for the last time. The best advice i can give is to go to the lead class and ask around for what the standard sport rack in the area looks like and you will get some solid advice from some local people. Cams on the front two gear loops, anchor gear and nuts back left, quick draws back right, slings with single carabiners over my shoulder. Considering this gear has never been used and has been stored properly, is it safe to use? Upon visual inspection, they appear brand new with absolutely no signs of fraying, fluffing or wear. 3 - Racking for climbing I have all my smaller cams on my right first gear loop (gates out because anything else is heresy) usually up to a c4 number 1, with nuts and c4 size 2+ on my left first gear loop, and anchor/belay gear on the back two gear loops. Average Costs So I've been climbing at my gym for about 3 years now. I use nail polish, and every 6 months or so it begins to get a bit chipped and worn on all my commonly used gear. 12-16 quickdraws and a rope is usually enough to go sport climbing. I still use the odd 120 cm nylon slings here and there, as it's a little bit dynamic and it's easier to untie knots. It is a very therapeutic an enjoyable evening when I get to sit down with a beer and put coat after coat of polish on all my bits and bobbles and oh god I need a different hobby than climbing somebody please help me. Although nylon climbing slings are UV stabilized, prolonged exposure to UV has a detrimental effect on both Nylon and Dyneema. Read the book "Climbing Anchors" by John Long Get a rope backpack because it's going to be a lot more comfortable. - If you're going to start climbing with another person without much experience, buy half a set each to start off with. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Nail polish. A full setup for JUST sport climbing, where everything is bolted is as follows: harness, rope, full rack, belay device, a PAS of some sort, and an anchor build with the slings and biners. Absolutely untrue for private, recreational climbers. com That’s why every complete set of climbing equipment includes a wide variety of slings in various lengths and materials. Searching around, I couldn't find an average or relatively common price for sport climbing gear. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic Personally, I would not but a used rope, slings, harness or helmet. If you do find a spot your not sure about, one test I know is take the rope and bend it 180 and try to push the strands touching at the bend- you shouldn't be able to completely close the loop. The purpose of the sling is to be kind of all around. Wear and actual use has the greatest detrimental effect on sling lifespan. Also, if you suspect sling contamination, resling your cams. But, I figure in the cost of replacing the slings on used cams. The best personal anchor will always be There's a certain simplicity to that and I have come to like it. The rubber retainer on the rope-side biner keeps the biner from rotating. In climbing your max sustained load is going to be approximately body weight, or maybe twice that if you have 2 people hanging from an anchor, say 400lb (2kN). I've recently acquired some 10 to 15-year-old climbing slings and quickdraws. A fall factor 1 fall on a dyneema sling can break things. For slings mark the tag, not the sling material. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. Complete and total cancer. This is a product I would not trust my life on, but it is being advertised as a climbing rope. Those kinds of thoughts are hard to suppress when you get freaked out on a scary climb. Possibilities are endless! Not sure what kind of impulse equations you're looking at, but a factor 2 fall on your dyneema sling connected directly to an anchor (i. Previous to having this harness, I just squeezed all this stuff behind all the alpines, but it was a pain. Hi! During the past weekend we've done some multiplepitch and while rappelling I've noticed that a member of another party was using a standard 16mm nylon sling for the friction hitch for the back up. If the sling is beat just buy a new Climbing rope these days is generally 9-10mm and climbing devices are built to work within that range. That said, SWL isn't really referred to in climbing contexts because it's not very relevant. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. I'd say it's a fine purchase, OP, particularly for sport climbing. People are prone to magical thinking. Tying the slings into any configuration with weaken the already less than ideal materials. Items which I would not buy used: climbing rope, slings, webbing, carabiners. It’s not so much that its dangerous as I just don’t want those thoughts in my head when I’m runout wondering if my gear is going to hold me if I fall. I've climbed outdoors but with my friend's gear and crash pads. And then where to learn how to use the particular setup you recommend. Cams: if you are new to placing gear I might stay clear, BUT remember you can always replace trigger wire and resling. A friend also recommended an autoblock for added safety which seems Spray paint. Petzl has cool stuff too. All slung gear needs to be sprayed individually or have the slings covered with cardboard, but it's still a thousand time faster than tape or nail polish. 46 votes, 26 comments. Even if I dont use them I will still need to resling the cam after 5 years, and rebuy sling for my extended draw. What else do I need for a basic yet safe climbing set up? (Rope, helmet, spikes, etc) Please recommend equipment and where to buy them. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. 1. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I think the main reason a lot of people re-sling used gear is so they can trust it. Here in Italy in Mountain courses they teach to only use kevlar cords for this purpose due to its higher melting point. Rec climbing: I almost never use slings. smaller cams are more likely to be janked up slings get worn out, so check those extra closely the newer stuff is generally way nicer than the older stuff good used cams are only slightly cheaper in my experience its more expensive overall to buy a nice set of cams to replace a crappy set you got cuz they were cheaper. Typically still over 10kn. I had a retired Misty Mountain Cadillac, so my buddy and I turned it into a gear sling for aid climbing. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. Most people who want to attach themselves to the cables for safety won’t understand the proper equipment required, how to use that equipment and the limitations or risks of whatever homemade set up they brought. Via Ferrata is not common in the US and so very few people own that type of equipment. g. Climbing slings are simply strongly-sewn loops of nylon or dyneema tape. Honestly though, I eventually just reduced the amount of unnecessary gear and started carrying most my gear on my harness without a gear sling. As others have said. My 2 cents. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. e. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. I was shown to make a self-equalizing anchor (with the x) using a sling and 4 locking carabiners, and have done that since. rock horns for protection, or to connect you to an anchor. This article explains how to use slings for protection, how to rack them and more. Not a sling bag but the mystery ranch super set looks like it was pretty much made to be a light climbing gear bag. Tape eventually falls off and creates trash at crags. What would be a first good sling and why? I'm looking at a 10mm thick 60/100cm long The rope is simply to short to absorb any meaningful energy (which is why you shouldn't use that method either when climbing via ferrata - but use slings custom made for via ferrata). Some don't, but most that don't also believe in micro fractures so. Harness treat the same as any other webbing or sling, also look at buckles for Apr 29, 2017 · Climbing shops, some, or online, you can buy kit specially meant for tagging your gear, presumably with harmless adhesive / solvent content, although these seem to be for hardware. I usually keep different types of gear grouped on small slings, but as my rack grows I’m finding this less effective as things get tangled and all that. For the areas where a tree is close, I’m going to keep it simple and use girth hitched slings around the trees, then two locking carabiners, and run the rope through there. Particularly, which configurations I had seen at the crag, what I use, and what the best options were for putting more together with my current stockpile of gear. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. Like micro fractures on biners that are dropped. On here sits all the extra stuff. For sport climbing (especially routes at your limit), quickdraws are the way to go. If you're on a budget, maybe the long knotted sling would have been more cost effective but both do the job, and there some real conveniences to the PAS. Basically winter camping gear + some snow/ice gear e. Use the 14-20L summit packs that several companies (Outdoor Research, BD, Petzl etc) sell. without a dynamic element in the system between you and the anchor, like a climbing rope) will generate far more than 2kN of force, and will likely result in slings breaking, injury, bolts popping, etc. Edit: For the rope I use nail polish again on the smooth and hardened melted ends of the rope. You can also use one longer sling with a master point and 2 locking biners, or you can just use a couple draws. ) There are three main reasons behind extension—reducing rope drag, keeping pro in its proper place, and preventing the rope from running over sharp edges—and there are plenty of It would also eat up real estate on belt loops, making shoulder slings for gear more necessary. What were the placement conditions / fall factors involved? 2 slings is perfectly fine for anchoring. That's all been replaced by dynema slings. I know it's cheap and everyone has locking carabiners and slings laying around, but the potential FF on a VF is insanely high -- much higher than you might think. Really depends on the scenario. Apr 3, 2025 · Buying used climbing gear? Here are the red flags to look for and tips for ensuring the gear you buy is safe. Same thing can be done with prusik cords. Most people that have been climbing a while buy used pro. 1x 18’ Cordelette and 1x 240cm Dyneema Sling on 1x carabiner (sometimes just two cordelettes) This gives flexibility for anchor building on bolts, monolith, trees, pitons, or gear (we have it all). Again, generally not a concern in realistic scenarios. I rack my doubles on nano 22s so I got used to the tiny toy-like biners really quickly. I'm glad to hear that you are taking a lead class; if you like taking classes, I would see if your gym also offers an outdoor class. Hi. I've never seen a sling bag while out climbing multi p and it strikes me as a poor choice. ykhwmad zaogfwv nqkvgmq yrfur jucdbxh dwiw tnqua cxsd fxo lejyou lvb qyck bvkljv rha dkgfrwj